A Survival Guide for Foreigners in Seoul
Planning to be in Seoul for Seollal? Discover what it’s really like when the city goes quiet, where to find food, and how to celebrate like a local.
Celebrating New Year’s Day (Seollal) in Seoul
Imagine one of the world’s most hyper-active, neon-drenched megacities suddenly hitting the "mute" button. That is exactly what happens during Seollal, the Korean Lunar New Year. For many expats and travelers, the first time they experience daily life in Korea during this holiday, it feels like they’ve stepped into a post-apocalyptic movie—but in a peaceful, serene way.
The "Great Migration" takes millions of Seoulites back to their ancestral hometowns, leaving the usually gridlocked streets of Gangnam and Jongno eerily empty. If you are staying in the city during Seollal 2026 (which falls on February 17th), you are in for a unique treat that most tourists never get to see.
In this guide, I’ll share what it’s really like to navigate the city during the most important holiday of the year. We will cover everything from the "ghost town" phenomenon to where you can actually grab a bite when the local mom-and-pop shops pull down their shutters. Whether you’re a solo traveler or living here long-term, here is how to make the most of a quiet Seoul.
The "Ghost Town" Myth: What to Expect on the Streets
The first thing you will notice is the silence. For about three to four days, the relentless hum of Seoul’s traffic vanishes. In its place, you get wide-open boulevards and a subway system where you might actually get a seat during rush hour.
While the "ghost town" label is a bit of an exaggeration, it’s true that small neighborhood businesses—the dry cleaners, the corner gukbap (soup) spots, and the local fruit stands—will definitely be closed. Before moving to Korea, many people assume the whole country shuts down, but it’s mostly the family-run heart of the city that takes a breather.
Modern Seoul, however, doesn't fully sleep. While the residential alleys of Mapo or Seongbuk might feel deserted, major hubs like Myeongdong, Hongdae, and Gangnam stay quite lively. You’ll see plenty of other foreigners and younger Koreans who have finished their family duties early and are looking for a place to hang out.
Navigating the Migration
If you’re planning to leave Seoul during this time, my best advice is: don’t. At least, not unless you booked your KTX (high-speed train) tickets months in advance. The "Great Migration" means that every train, bus, and flight out of the city is packed to the brim with families heading south.
Conversely, getting around Seoul is easier than ever. Taxis are plentiful (though they might charge a holiday premium or be harder to hail on the actual New Year's Day), and the subway runs on a slightly less frequent holiday schedule. It’s the perfect time to visit that one neighborhood you usually avoid because of the crowds.
Will You Starve? Finding Food During the Holiday
One of the biggest things I didn’t expect during my first Seollal was the sudden disappearance of my favorite kimbap shop. If you rely on local, family-owned eateries, you might find yourself staring at a lot of "Closed for Holiday" signs.
However, you won't starve. Most major department stores (like Shinsegae or Lotte) only close for one or two days (usually the day of and the day after Seollal). Large supermarket chains like E-Mart and Homeplus also have specific holiday closures, so you should definitely stock up on essentials a few days before the 17th.
The Convenience Store Feast
If you find yourself stuck on the actual day of Seollal and everything is closed, the humble convenience store (CU, GS25, 7-Eleven) will be your best friend. In recent years, these stores have started releasing "Seollal Lunchboxes" (dosirak) that feature traditional holiday foods. It’s a bit of a local "pro tip" for students and expats who are spending the holiday alone—a way to taste the season without needing a Korean grandmother to cook for you.
💡 Pro Tip: Check Naver Maps!
Don't rely on Google Maps in Korea—it’s notoriously inaccurate. Instead, use Naver Maps or KakaoMap. During Seollal, many businesses update their holiday hours directly on these apps. If the "Hours" section has a red "Closed" or a specific holiday notice, believe it!
Cultural Immersion: Palaces and Folk Villages
While the city’s commercial heart slows down, its cultural heart beats faster. This is the best time to visit the "Five Grand Palaces" of Seoul, including Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung.
In 2026, admission to these palaces is typically free for everyone during the Seollal holiday. You will see hundreds of people, both locals and tourists, wearing Hanbok (traditional Korean clothing). It creates a festive, historical atmosphere that feels like you’ve traveled back in time to the Joseon Dynasty.
Traditional Games and Performances
Most of these cultural sites host special events where you can try your hand at traditional folk games. Look out for:
Yutnori: A board game played by tossing four wooden sticks.
Jegichagi: Similar to hacky sack, but with a weighted paper shuttlecock.
Tuho: A game of throwing arrows into a narrow-necked jar.
Namsangol Hanok Village, located near Namsan Tower, is particularly famous for its Seollal festivals. They often have performances of Samulnori (traditional percussion music) and even demonstrations of how a traditional ancestral rite (Charye) is performed. It’s the closest most foreigners will get to seeing the private side of the holiday.
Understanding the Traditions (Simple English)
To truly appreciate the holiday, it helps to know a few key terms. Koreans don't just celebrate a "New Year"; they celebrate their ancestors and their elders.
| Term | Meaning | Why it matters |
| Seollal (설날) | Lunar New Year | The start of the lunar calendar year. |
| Hanbok (한복) | Traditional Clothing | Worn during ceremonies and for visiting palaces. |
| Tteokguk (떡국) | Rice Cake Soup | The essential New Year's meal. |
| Sebae (세배) | Traditional Bow | Younger people bow to elders to show respect. |
| Sebaetdon (세뱃돈) | New Year's Money | The cash gift elders give to children after the bow. |
The "Age-Up" Soup
You cannot talk about Seollal without mentioning Tteokguk. This savory soup made with thinly sliced rice cakes in a clear beef or anchovy broth is more than just food. In Korean culture, you don't actually "turn a year older" on your birthday—you do it by finishing a bowl of Tteokguk on Seollal morning!
The white color of the rice cakes symbolizes purity and a fresh start, while their round shape (resembling old coins) represents a wish for prosperity. Even if you aren't at a family gathering, many restaurants in tourist districts will serve this during the holiday week. I highly recommend trying it to "officially" start your new year in Korea.
Modern Seollal: Where the Locals Actually Go
While the older generation stays home for rites, the younger generation has turned Seollal into a "staycation" period. If you want to see where the people are, head to the massive indoor malls.
Starfield COEX Mall and Lotte World Mall are usually packed during the holiday. They offer a "one-stop" experience where you can shop, eat, and see a movie without worrying about closures. Movie theaters, in particular, are a huge Seollal tradition for Korean families—usually, the biggest Korean blockbusters of the year are released right before the holiday.
Another great option is visiting a Jjimjilbang (Korean bathhouse). While some neighborhood ones might close, the larger, famous ones like Dragon Hill Spa (if reopened by 2026) or Cimer at Paradise City often stay open. There is nothing quite like soaking in a hot tub while the rest of the city is silent outside.
Conclusion
Spending Seollal in Seoul is an experience of contrasts. You get the rare gift of a quiet, peaceful metropolis, but you also get the vibrant, colorful energy of ancient traditions at the palaces. It might feel a little lonely if you’re far from home, but it’s also a time for reflection and a "reset" before the busy spring season begins.
If you are planning to visit or live in Korea, don't fear the holiday closures. Embrace the slower pace, find a bowl of Tteokguk, and take a walk through a traffic-free Seoul. It’s a side of the city that is deeply human, steeped in history, and surprisingly beautiful.
Have you ever experienced a major holiday in a foreign country where everything shut down? Let me know in the comments how you handled it!